At all times and for all peoples, clothing, apart from the traditional practical function, was also a peculiar "mold" of the national mentality, served as a kind of key to the national culture. In recent years, elements of the Russian national costume are increasingly flickering in the collections of famous couturiers (not only domestic), and the Russian folk shirt is increasingly popular among young people. And it is not by chance: after all, a woven shirt is the most ancient and universal element of a folk costume. It was worn by men and women, peasants, merchants and princes.
History of Russian shirt
In the Old Slavonic language you can find many words that are consonant with the word "shirt". But, nevertheless, the closest to the shirt is the etymological word "rub" (cut, piece of cloth) and "rush" (tear down, tear). And this is not a mere coincidence. The fact is that initially, the shirt was the simplest garment - a cloth cloth bent in half with a cut aperture for the head. Yes, and scissors came into use much later than mankind mastered weaving. Therefore, the fabric for the first shirts was torn off, and not cut. Over time, the shirts of the shirt began to fasten on the sides, and even later, rectangular pieces of cloth were added to the top of the shirt-sleeves. Slavic shirt can also be considered a means of social integration. It was worn as ordinary lay people, and to know - the difference consisted only in the quality of the material (linen, hemp and silk, later cotton) and richness of the finish. On the collar, hem and wrist Russian national shirt must have been decorated with an embroidery-amulet. In contrast to the South Slavic, the Russian men's shirt by the 17th and 18th centuries gets such easily recognizable features as a slit cut to the left at the neck (hence its second name - the kosovorotka), due to which the cross did not "fall out" outward, and the length is knee-length. Even more interesting are the history and characteristics of the Russian women's shirt.
Women's shirt - the tradition of magnetism
Slavic women's shirt was the basis of any national attire. In the southern regions, she dressed under a skirt-poneva, in the central and northern - it was worn mainly with sarafans . Such a linen shirt, long equal to the length of the sarafan, was called "stan". Distinguished everyday and festive women's shirts, withered, mowing, in addition, special shirts were for feeding babies.
But, perhaps, the most interesting shirt is a promise. This shirt was sewn with long sleeves (often to the hem). At the wrist level, the hand slots were made so that the hanging sleeves could be tied behind the back. However, there was another way of wearing such a shirt - the extra length of the sleeves gathered in folds and was held by handcuffs. Of course, this shirt did not belong to everyday life - it was difficult to work in it (to put it mildly, it is difficult to say "Work through sleeves" - from here). Initially, it was used for divination and in the process of pagan religious rites (remember the tale of the Frog Princess!). Later this kind of shirt turned into festive clothes, or clothing for the nobility, although its magical color did not lose. In "The Lay of Igor's Regiment" Yaroslavna is eager to fly a bird to her prince, wash his wounds with water from the Dnieper-Slavutich, wipe them with his sleeves. Even after so many years after the adoption of Christianity, the Rusichs believed in the healing power of the embroideries-wards of the outer shirts. By the way, for the same reasons, the first shirt was given to the newborn in Russia from the father's shirt (for the boy) or the mother (for the girl). Such clothes were considered a powerful amulet. Only in three years the child received the first shirt from the "novya".
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