Sunberry - growing

Few gardeners and truck farmers are familiar with this hybrid of African and European small-fruited nightshade, which was bred by Luther Burbank in the United States. The genes of the European "parent" were presented to the sanderberry, to the sunny berry, rich taste, and the African "ancestors" gave the plant large fruits, high yield and unpretentiousness.

Brief information about the plant

The plant has a powerful and very powerful sandberry bush, which can reach a height of one and a half meters. The stem itself is besmirched by the sandberry, which is called the garden blueberry because of the similarity of the fruit, thick, with faceted ribs. The plant is highly resistant to colds. It can withstand and small frosts, if not build a shelter. A distinctive feature of sanberry is its resistance to the most dangerous pests of Solanaceae - Colorado beetles .

Inflorescences in sanberries are small, and in appearance they resemble the flowers of pepper. Fruits the size of a cherry are collected for ten to fifteen pieces in a brush. Sunberry continues to bloom, tie fruit to the frosts, and ovaries form throughout the bush area. Berries are harvested in early autumn, when the fruits turn black and acquire elasticity. For a long time, berries can be stored without losing their taste qualities. Those who cultivate sanberries know that even unripened berries can be "brought to normal" by placing them on a sheet of paper in a cool dry place. They, like tomatoes, can ripen, being torn from the bush.

To name the taste of the fruits of sanberry is excellent and outstanding. They are the same as all Solanaceae. If you burn the fruit with boiling water, the taste will improve. You can leave them on the bush for one night when the temperature drops below zero. Then saberri will acquire sweetness. Kislinka, which is present in the taste, allows the use of fruits for the production of jams, compotes, fillings for pies.

Peculiarities of growing

Cultivating a sanberry from seeds, not seedlings, is not the best solution. The fact is that the culture is characterized by a long period of vegetation. If you sow seeds in the ground, then until the fall, you can not wait for the fruits. That's why the seeds are sown in February. A shallow fertile substrate is poured into a shallow box, and seeds are then sown to a depth of 1-2 centimeters. But they should be prepared before that. First, a thin needle should be scratched on each seed, then put the planting material in a jar with river large sand and a good bite. Such manipulations will lead to a violation of the integrity of the shells of seeds. Moisture will penetrate into the interior faster, promoting swelling and early germination. Seeded seeds are covered with glass and wait for seedlings, periodically watering and ventilating the container. After the emergence of the shoots, the glass is removed, and when the third leaf on the seedlings grows, they can be dived.

Note, if the soil is acid on your site, then it should be lime before landing the sanberry. The type of soil for culture does not matter. It is better if the precursors of sanberry are cucurbitaceous cultures. Plant seedlings at a distance of about 70 centimeters from each other. Between the rows should be left at least 80 centimeters. Grows The bush is fast, so you must take care of the supports. And tying the side shoots will save the plant from contact with the ground. During the vegetative period, sanberry should be twice riddled, but there is no need for pasyning. Only a month before the harvest, new stepsons should be plucked. This will increase the size of the fruit and accelerate their maturation. As for irrigation, the plant needs them only in the dry period. One feeding in the season will be enough.

As you can see, cultivation of sanberry is not a troublesome business. A good harvest of berries and decoration of the site during the spring-summer season you are provided.